Sunday, 27 May 2007

Painting and Weathering Tutorial: Part IV (and last)

(versión en Español)


Today, we are going to finish this tutorial. I have also edited previous entries to put the exact paint I used on each stage, so feel free to check them again.

You'll notice that I painted some small areas, like the storm bolter and so. Those are not important enough to enter on details, just put a coat or two of Vallejo Model Color or Humbrol Enamels..

We are going to continue painting all optics (periscope lenses, etc.) on Humbrol Silver #11. Once the enamel is dry, I cover it with Tamiya Clear Blue X23. This is a transparent paint that gives the lenses a natural finish. I let everything dry before going to the next step. I put a drop of Microscale Micro Krystal Klear in a the concave fitting I let express in the model to accommodate a light.

I use again my graphite stick on the tow cable, then I rub it with my finger to burnish it a little.

Once finished, it's time to give a nice gloss coat to the optics. I use Humbrol Gloss Vanirsh (the best gloss varnish IMO).

This is the concave fitting I told you before. Once the Micro Krystal Klear is dry it becomes transparent, it just needs a little varnish coat to look very nice!

You'll notice that I not use the common technique used by W40K modelers of painting by hand gemlike reflects. I thought about it and decided that being this model a mix of "traditional" modeling techniques applied to 40K, I would use something different for the optics.

Now we are going to use another technique based on pigments. I do a very diluted mix of MIG pigments Copper Rust P26 and Ashes White P22 on alcohol.

I lightly apply this pigment suspension on alcohol to some selected areas. Once dry, the pigments will show, giving some interesting effects. Look at the rusted area up to the center and the tow cable.

As you can imagine, putting alcohol over acrylics is risky, so pay attention to not add too much. The paint will soft under the effect of the alcohol, so be careful on where do you place your fingers! See below to see what happened to me...

No problem, we'll fix it later adding mud and dust. I add now some rust coloured pigment mix I had laying around to give the problematic area a darker shade.

Another view of the (good) effects of the pigment suspension.

As the tank is nearly finished, I am going to paint the ammunition boxes. I fix them on a temporary base and paint them by brush with enamels. I used Humbrol #34, #94 and Revell #65.

Once they are dry (2 hours at least), I give them an oil wash of Burnt sienna

Once the wash is dry (overnight), I add MIG pigment P230, Old Rust diluted in alcohol to further weather them.

I will use Faber Castell coloured pencils to do some scratches to the boxes.

I glue them on place...

...and prepare to move on.

The effect is too exaggerated, but we are going to blend it adding dust.

Time to dust the model! We prepare a very diluted mix of Tamiya XF57 Buff and XF52 Flat Earth.

We start pre-dusting the model adding a very irregular layer of acrylics where we want to add dust.

The effect is very subtle, but it will help to fix the dust in next stage.

I now choose MIG Pigments P28 Europe Dust and P33 Dark Mud.

I add them dry, with the help of a brush, forcing them to the recesses. I put the darker shade in the parts that are hidden. The lighter shade will be placed in the open areas. It is important to not put dust in the areas used by the crew to access the vehicle.

Once the pigment is in place, we add some drops of turpentine (I strongly recommend you odourless turpentine. I used Talens 089 Odourless White Spirit) to fix it in place.

We can use a brush to move the pigments around.

Now we let the turpentine dry.

Once dry, I used my finger to remove dust from some areas. This is how it looks now.

Now, we recover the mud mix we did in PART III and add a little water.

Using a hard bristle brush, we can blow compressed air with the help of an airbrush to do some mud splashes (you better try it before in a piece of card!).

Time to add some dry P23 Black Smoke pigment to the engine exhausts...

...and to the muzzle brake.

Finally! The last stage!

I do a mix of Humbrol Gloss Varnish, Black oil colour and white spirit. I'll use this mix to carefully paint oil and gas (promethium, of course) spills.

I also added to the turret ring.

And sparingly to some points on the tracks.

Now it's time to look at you model and eliminate excess dusting with a little cotton and turpentine.

Officially finished!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial as much as I did.

See you next soon with more ideas!


Anonymous said...

Great Tutorial, that's help a lot!
Your blog is sweet, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge :)

Have fun!

Hummlkai said...

This is a fantastic tutorial and it ends with a fantastic tank. Absolutely amazing! Thanks very much for this inspirational work!

Anonymous said...

Amazing work. Thanks for this!

mirza0304 said...

Om nom nom very good I wonder if you have done any submarines like uboot VIIC, IXB,IXC,XXI,XXIII or type 212 or 214 any type of submarine. I would appreciate if you could share your pics or ''how to'' instructions.
Weathering, wash,rust all I liked it very much. BTW I'm beginner all help about weathering basics anything. Also tips about enamel colors and thinning the same.

Generic Levitra said...

Art consisting of representational, imaginative, or abstract designs produced by application of coloured paints to a two-dimensional, prepared, flat surface. The elements of design (i.e., line, colour, tone, texture) are used in various ways to produce sensations of volume, space, movement, and light.

Generic Viagra 100mg said...

I think you’ve made some truly interesting points. Not too many people would actually think about this the way you just did. I’m really impressed that there’s so much about this subject that’s been uncovered and you did it so well, with so much class. Good one you, man! Really great stuff

Health Nwes said...

Thanks a lot for sharing. You have done a brilliant job. Your article is truly relevant to my study at this moment, and I am really happy I discovered your website. However, I would like to see more details about this topic. I'm going to keep coming back here.

viagra online said...

This is really found me very interesting.... Great blog post, Thanks for sharing.... Keep posting....


asterhealthsource said...

Nice tutorial..I love painting..and i like your tank...Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
generic viagra

business logo design said...

I loved the second one, I think the style in the photo make a perfect sense in the work, I mean the most difficult thing always is created one sense in the picture .

Inversiones en oro said...

Hello, i would like to read more about this interesting topic.

cialis buy said...

Please one more post about that.I wonder how you got so good. This is really a fascinating blog, lots of stuff that I can get into. One thing I just want to say is that your Blog is so perfect

viagra dose said...

Thanks mate... just dropped by. Will look for BIKE STN when we get to Seattle. Still in Buenos Airies.

amoxicillin rash said...

That was an interesting piece of information on handwriting analysis. Please post more about graphology. Thank you!

bigpenis said...

penis enlargement, penis enlargement pills, male enhancement, vimax
Penis enlargement pills have been proven is the best way to make the penis bigger and effective to increase men’s sexual performance. vimax, vigrx plus, prosolution pills, maleextra

saim said...

You made some good points there. I did a search on the matter and found the majority of people will consent with your blog.

natural minerals
best naturals
buy curcumin

SteveBrad said...

Excellent Photos....!!!!!
I liked so much .Thanks a lot for sharing this pictures.Now I am fan of your blog.This blog is provide lots of good idea and your blog are very usefull for me.Thanks a lot.
Generic Viagra